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The “Wow, I’ve Changed ” Post

Well, I’m back in the USA. After 13 months abroad and time spent in South Korea, Vietnam, Thailand, Hong Kong, Laos, Malaysia, India, and Cambodia, I’m right back at home where I started and working full-time in DC on a midterm election-related job (talk about getting right back into the game). And the past year feels like something out of the movie “Inception.”

We don’t often talk about it, especially in developed countries, but there’s still something quite remarkable about modern air travel. While the long-range jet has opened destinations globally that were previously near inaccessible, it has also somewhat made small our world. Thanks to a stroke of good luck, my American Airlines flight to Washington, DC by way of a layover in Dallas, Texas transformed into a direct 13 1/2 hour flight from Incheon to Washington Dulles International Airport. And it was incredibly anticlimactic. After finishing the grant year and spending August gallivanting around Southeast Asia with my old college suitemate Mac, I stepped onto a plane and, before I knew it, was back on American soil. Whereas traveling by train and bus in Asia provided a sense of the vast unknown, my trip halfway around the world amounted to little more experientially than sitting in a long, crowded, and big room that shook around once in a while. Clearing immigration and customs, while taking forever (because it totally makes sense to have only one agent checking all 300+ passengers customs forms, CBP), was easy. Almost too quickly, I was being picked up by my parents—home. And my first thought upon setting my bags down in the living room was this:

Did the past year even happen?

After reading many Fulbright blogs, it seems as if a lot of them end with the big “change” post at the end. It’s also a pretty fair thing to do—a year abroad, living in a host community and working in a school will inevitably change you. That change has been particularly noticeable after almost two weeks home, but also already feels distant.

I don’t know how to sum up the grant year. I feel as if I can’t, frankly—how does one take inventory of the new experiences and knowledge gained (and lost) throughout a year abroad? I hadn’t given the change much thought until I finished teaching.

My official last day at Gakri Middle School didn’t feel all that different for the most part. While the teachers gave me a really nice goodbye lunch the previous day and some of my favorite teachers (thank you P.E. department!) stopped by to say their goodbyes and wish me luck, school went on as normal. My kids, however, were cuter than ever. One of my favorite students gave me a delicious package of ramen and we took more group selfies than I could count. I had long conversations with my teachers who spoke English and shared smiles with those who did not. When the end of the day came, I went to my homestay, said my final goodbye to my host mom, and started my two-hour journey back to Jungwon University, the site of my own Orientation, to impart my experience with the new class of ETAs.

Over my final weeks in Korea, I visited the new group of ETAs three separate times to give presentations on things that might help them during their own grant years. It was that bookend of returning to the place my adventure began that truly demonstrated my personal growth. One year ago, I knew no Korean. I had never ridden a public long-distance bus. And I certainly had never been to a public bathhouse, let alone enjoyed or craved the experience. Yet, a year later, returning to the countryside town of Goesan, I felt a sense of confidence. While my Korean was nowhere near fluent, I could comfortable interact with the taxi driver and local townspeople. On arrival, I instantly craved a dish of naengmyeon, Korean cold buckwheat noodles, to cut the heat and satisfy my hunger—a food I hadn’t even heard of a year ago. And, instead of being the apprehensive new ETA, I felt confident speaking to a new group of 50 about my experience teaching and their own impending grant years.

So, yes, I’ve changed. How that will play out in my new professional and personal life in the United States, I really don’t know. I can’t even begin to claim that I truly “know” Korea. Even with a full year under my belt, I can’t even say that I’m anywhere near an experienced classroom teacher, although I’m loads further along than I was when I began. I can’t even begin to count the number of cultural faux pas’ I continue to make.

The hardest part of these kinds of wrap-up blog posts is just that: the wrap-up. It’s hard to make it satisfying. However, I don’t really want to close my experience. While my grant year is formally over, my contract has lapsed, and my fellow Fulbrighters have dissipated across the globe, the experience, in many ways, has just begun. While the mission of the Fulbright Program is lofty, to be sure, the creation of “mutual understanding” does not come full circle without engagement upon return. I’ve had my experience as a Fulbrighter in South Korea, but now the responsibility of being a returned Fulbrighter kicks in. While I tried to both directly and indirectly teach my Korean students, host family, and community about America, to bring things full circle, I must do the same for people here at home. I can’t claim to know Korea, but if I can share anything that makes people think about the world a bit more critically (or even at all), I’ve started to do my job well.

I miss my Fulbright friends, expat community, and Korean students dearly. Going through the trove of Facebook photographs and students’ goodbye book instantly gets me feeling sentimental. All I can say is thank you, to everyone. Thank you to friends, family, and colleagues at home for supporting me in going abroad. Thank you to the people I met abroad for becoming some of the best friends and social support group ever. Thank you, South Korea, for showing me the best and worst of times. And thank you, “dear reader” (I’ve always wanted to say that, in homage to my favorite writer and public intellectual, Christopher Hitchens), for joining me on the first part of this adventure—there’s always more to come.

Hanging out with 2013-14 Korea Fulbrighters Allison, Kristine, Taylor, and Dan on a Metro-North Platform in Bronxville, NY a week after returning home

Hanging out with 2013-14 Korea Fulbright ETAs Allison, Kristine, Taylor, and Dan on a Metro-North Platform in Bronxville, NY a week after returning home. Hello America.




Traveling to China: An introduction of sorts

Living out of this bag for the next four-ish months.

Today marks the beginning of a new journey in my cultural learning, education, and overall level of classy-ness. Well, maybe not the latter, but I can hope..

From August 31st to December 15th, I will be studying abroad in China at Beijing University with the Pitzer in China Program.

I  really don’t know what to expect. After meeting with a number of people who have traveled to China before, one thing has become clear:

China is changing. Constantly. Quickly. And you can’t keep up.

It’s to the point where even a guidebook published 6 months ago is obsolete. Part of me says that this is a good thing, that this fact in itself is a new experience. But it also means that there isn’t much in the way of preparation.

On that point, if you do want a great book on China, J. Maarten Troost’s Lost on Planet China is an engaging and hilarious look at the country. Should be required reading for China study abroad. Thanks to  Tim Hanson, one of my teachers at Bullis School, for the recommendation.

I was just reading my friend Emily’s study abroad blog, and she started off with a post of lists; lists of what she was looking forward too, nervous about, etc. Therefore, I am going to shamelessly copy that style myself.

Here are three things I’m looking forward to and three things I’m apprehensive about in China:

-The food. I’m absolutely down to try crazy, weird, and exotic things. Oh, and as a good friend of mine pointed out, supposedly the best dumplings I will ever eat.

-The city. Beijing is a rich international city with a huge population. I’ve never lived in such a city (I don’t count Washington, DC), and being in this environment will certainly offer a lot for reflection.

– Learning mandarin. An exquisitely complex language, mandarin is the next world language, much in the way English has been. Although I have a very poor track record with learning language, and I don’t expect to be fluent, I think I can learn a lot from this immersion experience.

Now, for the apprehension:

– The language. Ahh yes, it’s on both lists. Mandarin is also my only form of communication with the Chinese people (and my Chinese roommate), so it’s kind of important to learn. And nerve-wracking. Not to mention that I take two courses of it, and they’re graded.

-The air quality. I’m in Los Angeles most of the year, I’m used to pollution, but China is known for having particularly noxious air.

-Getting denied entry/legal issues. The one thing that has always frightened me about China is their rather, erm, intense legal system. From mobile execution vans to interrogation, I don’t want to do anything that would get me in trouble. As far as getting in, I received a visa no problem (they actually gave me multiple entry, even though I only asked  for single), but whether or not you are allowed in is completely up to the immigration officer who reviews your documents. And don’t even get me started on the internet censorship/the great firewall.

There are obviously things I’ve omitted from the lists, but they are a start.

Currently, I’m writing this update from the 12th floor of the DoubleTree at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport. I’m here on a layover between DC and Beijing. This is just the first leg of my travel to China. I left Washington, DC yesterday afternoon, arrived in Seattle, stayed in this hotel for the night, and then hop on a plane at 2:15 PM today.

That flight will whisk me off (luckily not alone, my friend Jordan is also on the flight) on an 11 hour journey to Seoul, South Korea. After a one-hour layover in Seoul, we head to Beijing, arriving at around 8:00 PM on August 31st.

So that’s it. I’ve never had too much trouble traveling or settling down in a new place; going to school 3000 miles away from home in California tends to help.

I’m going to try to update this blog as much as possible while I’m in China with pictures, posts, reflections, and more, but due to all blogs being blocked by the Firewall, I don’t know how often that will happen. Be patient, dear reader!

One final note: If you too are studying abroad, want to contact me, have a blog I should read, or anything else, the best way to contact me will be through email. Send them to : jonathan.rice (at) me( dot) com. Please share your stories!  (If you are wondering why I spelled out “me” and “at,” it’s so crazy spam bots don’t get me)

If you’d like to send me mail (or stuff! I love getting stuff…), address it to:

Jonathan Rice
c/o Pitzer College in China Office
Shaoyuan, Building 2, Room 109
Beijing University
Beijing 100871,
Peoples Republic of China

If you want to chat, Skype me: jon.f.rice

I believe that covers it in terms of background and introductions! Now, time to check-out and continue to jet-set.

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